Saturday 2 September 2017

Pumpkin [mis]adventure: from gnocchi to pane

Pain ร  la courge / Pan de calabaza / Pane di zucca / Pumpkin bread


Bahay kubo, kahit munti,
Ang halaman doon, ay sari–sari...
...Kundol, patola, upo't kalabasa...

("Nipa hut, even though it's small,
The plants that grow around it are varied...
...Winter melon, sponge gourd, bottle gourd, and pumpkin...")

— excerpt of the lyrics of Bahay Kubo ("Nipa Hut"), a classic children's folk song in the ๐Ÿ‡ต๐Ÿ‡ญ


     I seem to be pretty enchanted with this yellow–orange vegetable lately. I know. It’s just your average and ordinary kalabasa. Maybe it’s either I’m being nostalgic and reminiscent of my experiences of our countless trips to the palengke together with my mother or it maybe even signs of aging? The very instant of seeing fresh produce in front of my eyes gives me that certain giddy delight, child–like excitement, and appreciation—or I’m just plain weird, if you like, hehe… Well, perhaps because it is the end of winter down here in Australia and a comforting hot bowl of soup, such as pumpkin soup, comes to my mind that would still surely warm up our souls here in this chilly isolated city by the Indian Ocean. There’s probably a bountiful harvest of this stout veggie this year. I’ve seen them being sold at a bargain for only 99¢ per kg in one supermarket. I knew I had to buy one. ๐Ÿ˜Š

     I’ve already done a lot of pumpkin soup in the past. So I thought I’d cook it into something different this time: gnocchi di zucca (or pumpkin gnocchi). Gnocchi (plural of gnocco) are dumplings or small balls of dough traditionally made from potatoes and/or flour that are boiled in water and usually served with a sauce in Italian cuisine. ๐Ÿ‡ฎ๐Ÿ‡น

     However, despite my best intentions, my pumpkin gnocchi didn’t turn out well—lesson learned for myself, hehe... Good gnocchi is supposed to be light and silky in texture. My first trial was quite dense and has a heavy mouthfeel to it. I realised and learned that the pumpkin was watery—the main culprit—and I should have left it lightly covered and have taken out the central pulpy mass (where the seeds are) before roasting in the oven. When making the gnocchi dough, we only add just enough flour as soon as the dough doesn’t stick on our kneading benchtop anymore. The less flour, the better. Therefore, excess water in the pumpkin would cause it to absorb more flour, and that would make our gnocchi to contain more gluten resulting to a dense chewy consistency, which we’re not after for. Later on in the evening, while consulting my books, I chance upon reading Julia Child’s, Simone Beck’s, and Louisette Bertholle’s advice in their great opus: “Dry out [the potatoes] by stirring them in a heavy–bottomed saucepan over moderate heat for a minute or two until they film the bottom of the pan. Remove from heat.”

     Not wanting to waste the rest of my pumpkin gnocchi dough, I decided to salvage it by just making it into pane di zucca (pumpkin bread). I just incorporated my little magic helpers (i.e. yeast) to help me do the trick. After several hours of proving—because I couldn’t find a spot that is warm enough to encourage my dough to rise—I chucked my fluffy pillow in a 200°C oven for the finale.

     The verdict? If gluten is your friend, you have a love affair with your baked goods, and you adore pumpkin for all its simplicity and humility, then this bright–and–optimistic–sunshine–yellow bread is for you. Its softness, utter deliciousness, and subtle sweetness can leave you gobsmacked and wanting for more. ๐Ÿ˜‹

     Would you like to know the recipe of this bread that can be mistaken for brioche? Just let me know and I'll be happy to share it. ๐Ÿ˜‰


P. S.  The yellowness of this bread is due to the natural colour of the pumpkin flesh which can be attributed from its inherent รŸ–carotene content (read: nutrient, antioxidant, Vitamin A, good health). ๐Ÿค“



Tuesday 14 March 2017

ฯ€ day


Love it, hate it, or don't care at all—today is still ฯ€ ("pi") day. ๐Ÿ˜Š (Coincidentally, it also happens to be Albert Einstein's birthday today as well.) Could you identify which one is the stargazy pie on my drawing above? ๐Ÿ˜‰ (Hint: The eccentric–looking one!)
(media: pencil and coloured pencils on plain A4 paper)


“...We must have a pie. Stress cannot exist in the presence of a pie.”
—said by Anna to Claire in Boston Marriage (a 1999 play by David Mamet; p. 23)


For many of our friends who are mathematicians or maths enthusiasts out there, they're probably celebrating this unusual day: ฯ€ day. ฯ€ is the Greek letter "pi" and is also the symbol for that mathematical constant which represents the ratio of the circumference of a circle to its diameter. (๐Ÿ˜ต Sorry, what was that again? hehe...) I'm probably not the best person to discuss about maths as I'm quite poor at it, haha... So I'll just refer you to this interesting article about ฯ€ and ฯ€ day by the late Professor Jonathan Borwein from the University of Newcastle ๐Ÿ‡ฆ๐Ÿ‡บ.

While ฯ€ is a very special number in the domain of maths—yet still with practical applications—we shall now concern ourselves in the realm of food where pie is something from an oven that is usually delicious, am I right? ๐Ÿ˜‹ A pie is a baked dish of fruit, meat, poultry, fish, and/or vegetables, typically with a top and base of pastry. It can either be savoury or sweet: from meat pies, buko ("young coconut") pies, apples pies, mince pies, and so forth—the variations are virtually endless! More often than not, we use pรขte brisรฉe (or shortcrust pastry) to wrap all of that yummy filling inside.

Shortcrust is a crumbly pastry made with flour, fat, and a little water, typically used for pies, flans, and tarts. We want this kind of texture as we don't want our pastry to be tough and hard when eaten—which would be a result of too much gluten formation. Gluten is a mixture of proteins present in cereal grains, especially wheat (and thereby wheat flour), which is responsible for the elastic texture of dough. What makes shortcrust crumbly in nature is due to the action of fat (e.g. butter). We use fat in a shortcrust pastry recipe as a shortening agent that inhibits continuous gluten development.

In order to make shortcrust pastry, we need to interrupt the gluten structure formed when flour and water are mixed together. This is achieved by using the fat as the shortening agent and involves mixing the pastry in two stages: In stage 1, the flour and fat are mixed together so that the flour particles become coated with fat. In stage 2, the water is added and the pastry is mixed until it just holds together. Overmixing at this stage will increase gluten development which reduces the shortening effect and results in tough eating baked products. The figure below shows how this process works to prevent continuous gluten development (Patient 1994).


Structure of shortcrust pastry Fat coats fragments of gluten to prevent them from forming a continuous sheet (Patient 1994)


Anyway. That's all for now my friends. Happy ฯ€ Day to everyone! ๐Ÿ˜Š ๐ŸŽ‰


P. S.  Have you found the stargazy pie on my drawing above yet? ๐Ÿ˜‰ It's a kind of fish pie traditionally made in Cornwall (in the UK), with the heads of the fish appearing through the crust. ๐ŸŸ I hope I can make this Cornish pie too someday should I be able to buy pilchards/sardines over here in Perth. ๐Ÿ˜‹

Friday 10 March 2017

๐Ÿฝ️ My take on the Paleo Diet: Roasted Harissa–rubbed Chicken with Salade Composรฉe & Avocado–Cauliflower Mousse and Coconut–Nectarine Tart


My modest attempt of a watercolour rendition of my Coconut–Nectarine Tart and Roasted Harissa–rubbed Chicken with Salade Composรฉe and Avocado–Cauliflower Mousse
[media: watercolour on plain A4 paper (notice the buckling/warping of the paper); need to use real watercolour paper next time—if I would ever have money to spare for that)]


Hey guys! How are you all doing? ๐Ÿ˜Š It has been more than a month since my last post. School has been quite busy. I reckon I've already told you that we're not just cooking all the time, but we also have theory classes and time–demanding worksheets to accomplish. In particular, one of our units (SITHCCC307) required us to do research about various types of special diets, do an oral report/presentation of our findings in front of our class, and come up with our own modified dishes that we have to cook during our final practical assessment for that unit. ๐Ÿ˜ฑ Yeah, you can just imagine how stressful that sounds! But I took it as a challenge, an adventure, as well as another avenue for creativity. ๐Ÿค” ๐Ÿ’ญ → ๐Ÿ˜ƒ ๐Ÿ’ก

Our chef instructor assigned me to report about the Paleo Diet. I've heard of this diet fad before, but I couldn't be bothered learning more about it. So, on to the Internet and school library to see what I can find. My full written report—including my modified recipes—can be found at the end of this post. Now for my dishes.

Since the Paleo Diet encourages more protein intake, I decided to use lean chicken breast, because it's relatively cheaper. (We have to source our own ingredients, so I just opted for more economical products instead.) I would have wanted to use exotic venison or even kangaroo or bush chook (i.e. emu) meat. However, they're either expensive or not readily available from where I live. To jazz up my poultry, I decided to use ู‡ุฑูŠุณุฉ ุงู„ูู„ูŠูู„ุฉ ุงู„ุญุงุฑุฉ (or simply "harissa") which is a spice mix used in Maghreb or North African cuisine. I came up with this idea as I wanted to add a touch of Middle Eastern flavour to my dish. Having worked and lived for two years in Qatar ๐Ÿ‡ถ๐Ÿ‡ฆ, I still crave for Middle Eastern / Arabic food from time to time. In addition, I would like to try out new spices and I haven't really used harissa before in my own personal cooking, although I knew it's got a Middle Eastern character because the Maghreb area is still essentially and culturally part of the greater Middle East region.

I didn't want my chicken to be alone and single—like me, hehe...—on the plate, so I've also made a side salad to go with it. I then remembered Rachel Khoo's colourful Salade d’hiver avec une mousse au fromage de chรจvre—which in turn got her inspiration from Estonian chef Peeter Pihel ๐Ÿ‡ช๐Ÿ‡ช—and thought I'd use that composed salad. But the Paleo Diet doesn't allow cheese and other dairy products. (I even had to take out the bacon from the original recipe!) I then had to replace the Selles-sur-Cher cheese mousse with an alternative. Many Aussies love their avocado and I like avocado too—except for its prohibitive cost most of the time (at least for frugal me, hehe...)—so I said to myself why not create a creamy avocado–based mousse? I thought of other Paleo–friendly ingredients and I selected cauliflower and coconut cream as my base components. I simply call my accompanying salad as salade composรฉe or composed salad, which is basically a modern untossed salad arranged aesthetically on a plate where each carefully chosen ingredient complements the other: hot and cold, raw and cooked, mildly salty and sweet.

Of course, would I forget dessert? No way! I still reckon that a meal wouldn't be complete without something sweet to cleanse our palates. For my Paleo dessert, I recalled watching this video shot in the beautiful state of Victoria and the last dish Rachel made was a chia jam–filled nectarine tart. The Paleo Diet restricts refined sugars, thus I tapped natural sultanas to sweeten my filling. Drawing from my tropical Filipino heritage, I also used coconut to intermarry with the nectarines.

Before writing my report and recipes, I had to test all the modifications I've made—true to my other hat of being a professional scientist / chemist, hehe...

๐Ÿค“ Experimentation and recipe modification/development in progress... (18 February 2017)


๐Ÿ˜Š And the initial results were these:




During last Wednesday's (8 March 2017) final practical assessment for our special diet unit, this was how I presented my dishes ๐Ÿ˜Š :



So, in conclusion, will I switch to a lifetime of adhering to the Paleo Diet anytime soon? Not quite because I still love my rice, bread, and cheese. That's all for now my friends. Before I end here, I share with you a copy of my Paleo Diet report that I submitted. I hope you can also try cooking these two dishes and let me know what you think afterwards. ๐Ÿ˜‰ Bon appรฉtit!

Sunday 5 February 2017

๐ŸŸ Fishy Thursday ๐ŸŽฃ

(media: pastel ร  l'huile / oil pastels on plain A4 paper)


...If you give a man a fish he is hungry again in an hour. If you teach him to catch a fish you do him a good turn.
— in Anne Isabella Thackeray Ritchie's Mrs. Dymond (1885)


Last Thursday (2 February 2017), we started with our seafood course—one of our courses for our final semester at culinary school this year. For our first lesson, we were introduced to an assortment of fishes found here in Australia and we were taught how to fillet several types of round fish. Below are the pictures I took during our seafood class. ๐ŸŸ  But first, let's have a little bit of trivia... ๐Ÿ˜Š


๐Ÿค“ TRIVIA:  Did you know that many fishes contain oils called omega–3 fatty acids that have health giving benefits? Two of these ฯ‰–3 fatty acids are DHA (docosahexaenoic acid) and EPA (eicosapentaenoic acid).

Structural formulรฆ of two ฯ‰–3 fatty acids
(Image taken from the Sigma–Aldrich website)


๐Ÿค“ ...another TRIVIA:  ๐Ÿ‘ƒ The "fishy" odour that we associate with fish is largely due to the formation of trimethylamine (TMA) from trimethylamine oxide (TMAO) that many fishes naturally contain. TMAO is broken down into smelly TMA by bacteria or fish enzymes. Lemon juice or vinegar—both acidic liquids—are frequently suggested for removing fishy smells when cleaning fish since they help convert stinky amines such as TMA into non-volatile, odourless, and water–soluble amine salts (McGee 2004, Stoker 2016)๐Ÿ‹ ๐ŸŸ Acidity also helps break down muddy–smelling geosmin that farmed freshwater fish (e.g. catfish, carp, tilapia) sometimes accumulate from blue–green algae (McGee 2004).

Conversion of trimethylamine oxide (TMAO) into trimethylamine (TMA) in fishes


Formation of an amine salt from trimethylamine (TMA)


Structural formula of geosmin


Nothing much to say tonight. I'll just have a quick dinner then off to bed soon as we start our second week of classes at 8:00 AM tomorrow. Bonne nuit! ๐ŸŒ› ๐Ÿ˜ด



bream

mullet

pink snapper

cobia

herring

flathead (top); whiting (bottom)

skipjack tuna

barramundi

Our chef instructor teaching us how to fillet ๐Ÿ”ช ๐ŸŸ ๐Ÿ˜Š



Filleting a mullet by myself ๐Ÿ”ช ๐ŸŸ ๐Ÿ˜ฃ

Successfully filleted and skinnedI did it! ๐Ÿ”ช ๐ŸŸ ๐Ÿ˜Š

Fish fillets that we cooked (battered and deep–fried, grilled, and pan–fried) and tasted at the end of our lesson ๐Ÿ‹ ๐ŸŸ ๐Ÿ˜‹


Saturday 28 January 2017

Saba–Langka Pie / Tarte ร  la banane–jacquier / Banana–Jackfruit Pie

Saba bananas and langka ("jackfruit")  (media: coloured pencils on plain A4 paper)


๐ŸŽ‰ ๐ŸŽ‡ Bonne annรฉe! ๐ŸŽ† ✨   Happy New Year guys! ๐Ÿ˜Š

Hope you're all doing well

The Bocuse d'Or ("World Cooking Competition") and the Coupe du Monde de la Pรขtisserie ("World Pastry Cup") have just concluded in Lyon, France. These prestigious biennial culinary competitions took place during the SIRHA 2017 (Salon international de la restauration, de l'hรดtellerie, et de l'alimentation ("International Hotel, Catering, and Food Trade Exhibition")), a world event for gastronomy and for the hospitality, catering, and food service industries. At the Bocuse d'Or, Team Australia finished 8th out of 24 participants—which isn't a bad rank after all, considering the level of their playing field. ๐Ÿ‡ฆ๐Ÿ‡บ Well–done! ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿผ So, congratulations and all the best to Chefs Daniel Arnold and Ryan Cosentino, as well as to their French coach, Chef Romuald Fassenet! More information about these two competitions can be found here:

     Bocuse d'Or / Concours mondial de la cuisine / World Cooking Competition
     http://www.sirha.com/en/bocuse-d-or
     http://www.bocusedor.com

     Coupe du Monde de la Pรขtisserie / World Pastry Cup
     http://www.sirha.com/en/coupe-du-monde-de-la-patisserie
     http://www.cmpatisserie.com

I'm not really into those hard–core culinary competition stuff nor any of those reality TV cooking contests though, but more into the simple pleasures of home cooking [and eating ๐Ÿฝ️] and the like. ๐Ÿ˜‹  (๐Ÿค” But why did I even started talking about those in the first place? Er, nothing really, except for want of a good introduction or so for this post, haha... ๐Ÿค“) Alright, let's all head into the kitchen now then, hehe...

I recently came back from the Philippines after several weeks of Christmas and New Year holidays to be with my family whom I haven't been with for more than two years. During that time, I've been also doing some kitchen experiments on the side that utilise local yet fresh ingredients. And one of these experiments is this dessert—or snack or tea time companion, if you like—made of bananas and jackfruit.

The variety of bananas I used are what Filipinos call as saba. On the exterior, they're angular rather than round and smooth. If you take one and cut it crosswise together with its skin, it has a squarish appearance. They're also sweet yet relatively firmer than an average banana and are suitable for cooking, just like plantains. As a Pinoy/Philippine street food, these saba bananas are commonly coated with sugar, deep–fried, and then placed on skewers. These caramelised bananas on a stick are what you call as "banana-cue"—smart name eh? ๐Ÿ˜‰ Anyway, to know more about saba and other types of bananas grown over there in the Islands, check out this useful resource from Biodiversity International: Farmers’ Handbook on Introduced and Local Banana Cultivars in the Philippines.

๐Ÿค“ TRIVIA:  Did you know that the aroma of bananas ๐ŸŒ is primarily attributed to a chemical called isoamyl acetate?
Structural formula of 3-methylbutyl acetate (or isoamyl acetate)


Saba bananas


Langka or jackfruit is a type of tropical fruit native to India but is now widely grown in many tropical areas—as far–flung as the Caribbean nation of Saint Vincent and the Grenadines: http://www.jeffmarck.net/Treculia/PDFetc/PrescodBreadfruitBreadnutJackfruit.pdf ๐Ÿ‡ป๐Ÿ‡จ ๐Ÿค“ This fruit has a greenish to yellowish spiky skin, but not prickly. It resembles durian, although these two are very much unrelated to each other. When unripe, this fruit can be cooked and eaten as a vegetable—although I'm afraid that I might be interchanging this with another closely related species called kamansi or breadnut, which we also cook and eat as a vegetable when still immature back in the Philippine Islands. A ripe jackfruit has a yellowish flesh. I can't describe how fragrant, sweet, and tasty this fruit is, but Harold McGee describes langka as having a “strong, complex aroma with musky, berry, pineapple, and caramel notes”. It certainly is not your usual table fruit, but more of a functional food, especially according to a 2012 review by Swami and his colleagues.

Alright, enough of the chatter and those introductory formalities and let's get eating... or should I say cooking first... ๐Ÿ˜ But seriously, I believe that the more you understand your food, the better is your appreciation for it and respect for all the farmers and growers who produce them with blood, sweat, and tears, don't you think? ๐Ÿ˜ƒ You'll then be thinking twice whether to bin or not that food that's still safe to eat. Thus, preventing food wastage consequently. At least that's my philosophy or so.

This pie—as with all pies—is basically made of two components: the crust (or pastry shell) and the filling. I prepared my pastry dough a day earlier so that it can rest overnight inside the refrigerator before rolling out. For the crust, I tried to make two variants: one made of farine complรจte (whole wheat flour) and the other made of regular all–purpose flour. I made two pies for each crust type for my family and they all savoured and loved it! ๐Ÿ˜‹


๐ŸŒ SabaLangka Pie / Tarte ร  la banane–jacquier / Banana–Jackfruit Pie ๐Ÿฅ„

Ingredients for the pรขte sucrรฉe (sweet pastry):  ← Ideally, the quantities in this recipe can line out two 9 (≈ 23 cm) pie plates. But you may have to make more, in case you have a larger tray. You can always bake the excess pastry trimmings and eat them like biscuits. ๐Ÿ˜‰

600 g flour
300 g butter
150 g icing/powdered sugar  ← I reduced this amount as I don't really like my crust to be too sweet
2 eggs

Procedure:
– Rub butter into sifted flour (If you have a food processor, this step would be easier); Mix should resemble breadcrumbs (Do not overmix or otherwise we'll have a tough pastry! If we overwork it, too much gluten will be encouraged and formed. Gluten strengthens the dough and makes it tough. We don't want that texture for our sweet pastry nor when making pรขte brisรฉe (shortcrust pastry).)
– Beat eggs lightly with sugar and add to the flour–butter mixture
– Wrap in plastic and chill inside the refrigerator to rest, preferably overnight
– When rested, line out pie plates with the pastry; Prick the bottoms using a fork; Chill pastry–lined pie plates in the refrigerator or freezer for at least an hour
– Blind–bake the shells in a preheated 180°C oven until lightly browned
– Cool prebaked crusts before adding the filling


The whole wheat pastry ready for rolling


Lined pie tin

Rolled out pรขte sucrรฉe (all–purpose flour variant)


Ingredients for the filling:  ← I didn't exactly measure my ingredients for the filling, as I was just leisurely cooking in our home kitchen. I always believe that any excess can always be eaten on its own, hehe... ๐Ÿค“

saba bananas  ← Peeled and cut into chunks. You don't need to buy those bananas with blemish–free skins as we're not going to eat the peelings anyway. I got my saba bananas at a bargain: ₱1 (≈ 3¢) per piece. I couldn't be happier when I always strike a deal at the fresh marketsI always feel like winning! hehe... ๐Ÿ˜„
jackfruit  ← I bought fresh jackfruit flesh from the market at ₱40 (≈ A$1.06) per 100 g. Realising that this was above my budget, I then thought that preserved jackfruit flesh would be more economical and tastes just as good too! So I grabbed a couple of jars from the supermarket.
muscovado  ← This is a special type of sugar, but you can always substitute it with brown sugar. Lightly sweeten, since our bananas are already sweet enough. But then our individual sense of taste are all subjective, so add more muscovado as you fancy.
water  ← From the tap; about a cup would do. This is only to ensure that our filling is a bit moist and not too dry.
breadcrumbs  ← You can use stale bread and just finely crumble them in a food processor
cinnamon, ground
vanilla essence  ← Vanilla pods are always the best, only if you're not financially challenged, unlike me who's currently living on a budget, hehe...

Procedure:
– Mix muscovado and water together in a big pot and chuck the bananas in; Boil and simmer gently until bananas are a bit soft
– Add the breadcrumbs; Simmer further if mixture is too wet (If filling is too wet, it can make a soggy–bottomed pie, which we're not after.)
– Turn off the heat, sprinkle some cinnamon, splash in your vanilla essence, and mix (If using vanilla pods, just scrape off their seeds and save the vanilla bean rind for another use (e.g. when making crรจme anglaise))
– Let the filling cool before placing in the pastry shells
– When do we add the langka? We'll use the jackfruit when we're ready to assemble our pie. If using fresh jackfruit flesh, shred/pull them into bits and caramelise them with muscovado on the hob, on a different saucepan. If using preserved jackfruit, we only need to shred/pull them into small pieces and set them aside for a while.

Cutting saba

Pie assembly:
– Fill the blind–baked pie shells with the banana filling, around ¾ full
– Scatter pulled jackfruit on top of the banana filling evenly
– Sprinkle some more cinnamon, if desired
– You can also do a layering technique: banana filling first, jackfruit pieces, then another layer of banana filling, and so on
– Cover the filling with a rolled out pastry dough or create a woven lattice/crisscross pattern—which I did for two of my pies ๐Ÿ‘Œ๐Ÿผ ๐Ÿ™‚  (If covering with a single pastry dough, don't forget to make vents by pricking the tops with a fork or small knife.)
– Brush the tops with egg wash and bake in a preheated 180°C oven until golden brown


Whole wheat pie shells with filling


Tops brushed with egg wash


Pie assembly (all–purpose flour variant)


Pie shells with filling

Covering the pie with woven pastry lattice pattern


  Baked sabalangka whole wheat pie


Baked sabalangka pie (with simple pastry cover)


Baked sabalangka pie (with woven lattice cover)




That's all for now. Let me know your thoughts by commenting below.

๐Ÿฝ️ Bon appรฉtit! ๐Ÿ˜‹